It was Mrs Peacock, in the Billiard Room, with a Band-Aid!

Well, I just spent a week in Jammu-Kashmir, a place where political tensions, territorial disputes, and religious turmoil transpire throughout the state. It has been said that these disturbances have cost the lives of over 60,000 (and some resources indicate upward of a million) residents over the last 10 years.  In fact locals in the regions we visited indicated that it has only been 2 years that they have begun to see tourists return. Prior to this, many were forced to close their businesses and leave for Dharamsala and Delhi to find work. Opinions differ regarding the current state of conflict varying between it is a very safe place to visit to it being compared to a volcano about to explode at any time especially due to youth, more new to the cause, holding on to anger from a very complicated history. Prior to the increased insurgency in the 90’s with the emergence of increased terrorist activities, Jammu-Kashmir was a popular tourist destination and a favored locale for trekking. 

This was the Jammu-Kashmir that Tobi and I experienced. It truly was like heaven on earth. Between the glass like lakes in the foreground and the massive jagged peaked Himalayas as its backdrop in Srinagar to passing saffron fields, terraced rice fields, famous Kashmiri apple orchards,  and gold and red bursts of colors of poplar and maple trees on our drive to higher elevation and then landing in Pahalgam where there were snow capped mountains, coupled with beautiful streams and rivers meandering through picturesque villages and an abundance of very friendly and equally curious people eager to engage in broken English conversations, Tobi and I thought we had found the true Shangri-La. 

View from our plane window of the Pir Panjal mountain range in the Himalayas.

Shakara or covered taxi boats on Nagin Lake with line of houseboats in the background.

The houseboats were left over from Colonial times when the British were prohibited from owning land. They are moored to the land and range from simple to quite ornate.

This is our bedroom with hand carved wood bed posts and ceiling panels and Kashmiri designed hand sewn curtains.

The deck where you could sit out for endless hours and watch the sunrise while listening to the beautiful surround sound of chants echoing off the lake coming from nearby mosques or listen to the incredible variety of bird calls while watching the shakaras deliver anything from vegetables, crafts and jewelry, flowers, candy or toilet paper.

In the morning the lake was covered in ice dewed lily and lotus pads. It is said to be exceptionally beautiful in summer when they are in full bloom. It was now the season for abstracting the lotus root which is considered a delicacy.

This gentleman came up on the boat and knocked on the glass door saying, "Hello madame! I am market man." Sure enough he was loaded down with goodies. For the rest of the day I was singing Rocket Man by Elton John though.

Shakara ride fit for a queen.. oh yeh... It was cold!

Interestingly most of the houses were built of brick

Floating vegetable gardens

Fishing village on stilts

Shakara driver smoking his water pipe. Notice the heart shape ore.

Walk in Pahalgam

Appears to be a way of drying and storing hay. Lots of sheep and ponies in this region.

The Himalayas peaking through the haze.

This water was freezing!

The locals wear long wool capes called Pherans and carry wicker baskets with ceramic pots filled with hot ashes under their ponchos to keep warm. Seemed like a serious fire hazard to us!

Tobi and our hotel owner Haji at the Brown Palace. He was a wise sweet spirited soul.

Tobi and I felt very protected along the way via frequent contact with Rahul checking in about our arrival times and destinations, new friends we met, one of which was a psychiatrist, (born and raised in Kashmir and now living in Naperville Illinois), guiding us on what to see, transportation, costs, and other practicalities down to our hotel host in Pahalgam exclaiming, “Where were you? I was just about to get in the jeep and come looking for you!” when Tobi and I arrived in the dark after wandering off on foot for over 6 hours to enjoy the sights.

At the airport you feel like you are on a military base. You have to get out of your car and put your luggage through x-rays before you even enter the airport.  In the airport there are 2 more x-ray points. You are then called over the loud-speakers to come onto the tarmac and identify your luggage before they place it on the plane. And finally they do another body search and final check of your carryon bags before walking on to the plane. At one check point they take my band-aids, a hair tie, one of many pens, a wad of very thin string, and a very small pencil sharpener. After questioning, Tobi was able to re-confiscate my hair tie and pen, but the rest was meant to be commandeered. When Tobi asked about the band-aids the guard shook her head with a stern “no” and pointed to her eyes as if to say one might highjack the plane by covering an un-expecting victim’s eyes with your band-aid in order to seize control. But the funniest part of this whole story is that when I went through the FINAL body/bag check the stewardess finds my Swiss army knife in my handbag and escorts me back into the airport to a military guard fully equipped with AK-47 or the likes and back to the desk where they confiscated my band-aids. You can imagine my angst when the military guard accuses me of hiding the knife and putting it back in my bag after the check. When I protested, “Absolutely not!” he questions, “Then it is the error of this guard?” (Pointing right at her with her staring at me), and I didn’t hesitate to say, “Yep!”

Safely home? Maybe not! Tobi calls us in to her room, panicked by a humming sound and vibration coming from her suitcase. We rack our brains to think of any electronics she could have packed. Unable to recall a possible object, we collectively entertained, “Could it be a bomb?”  Was the security check gal seeking revenge? Was there a sentiment of anti-Americanism being portrayed in a violent message? Just as we seriously considered contacting the police before opening the bag, I remembered Tobi’s electric toothbrush!!!! We all laughed hysterically, were relieved by our combined idiocy and recognized the welcomed release of unspoken tension we all experienced during our slightly risqué adventure.

I am back in Delhi now and will venture on to Rajasthan next. Will be in touch again when I can. Until then, much love and wishes for peace coming your way!

Namaste,

Jen

Beauty and Our Beasts

I don't know why this isn't showing up in normal print... but afraid to lose all the photos which take forever to download... so I am going to post and hope you can read this...

I was visiting the Lotus Temple of the Baha’i faith with a beautifully architected building and serene marble prayer room at its center and the equable basic principles inscribed throughout the grounds, such as the abandonment of prejudices, the elimination of extremes of wealth and poverty, and equality of men and women. And as I was walking in, an older man with well worn cloth for dress and clouded over eyes likely from cataracts, was on his knees, literally begging for mercy in the open walled security office at the front gate. The security officer was yelling and beating him with a long stick as thousands of us were being herded in past him in a single line to view this great temple. A white westerner and upper class Indian man were being escorted to sit down in seats outside to be questioned. For what crime this man committed to have this cruel treatment bestowed upon him I will not know, but my stomach churns, tears are in my eyes and my heart sinks to think of the harsh penalty of his current circumstance and the life events that have lead him to this moment. And if you think you can sit in the comfort of, “at least this kind of stuff doesn’t happen in the civilized society that I live in,” think again. I recently learned of someone I know, an African American man, who was isolated in his own house and beaten by the cops sustaining broken ribs and requiring hospitalization, after a call was placed about a family dispute. What thoughts do we create in our minds to assuage our own discomfort or our own inner beasts… “He probably deserved it, That’s karma, I hope he learns his lesson?” Instead, could we sit with the awareness of the stark inequalities and contradictions in our everyday lives and see what action, if any, it moves us to take? I'm not trying to be preachy, I myself am sitting here with my own discomfort often feeling paralyzed, sometimes feeling moved by what to do.

The kids of Delhi

Tee hee... I couldn't resist

The architecture

The chaos

Old friends/New friends

This is my friend Tobi who is hosting me when I am in Delhi with Avantica her 3 year old neighbor who comes up to have Tobi read to her.

Meena cooking with Avantica and Charlie monitoring the progress



Ibah, Avantica and Karon snuggling after a delicious meal I was invited to.



Ibah's mom and dad

Princess Charlie

Prince Gato

Miscellaneous

I am getting nervous, the computer is acting up, I better press post soon! Sorry for the long blog entry, could have probably broken this one up, but I will be leaving Delhi soon and will likely have less access, time, and patience to write and download photos from internet cafes.

Most of you know that part of my return stay in India is to visit with the youth at Sri Ram Ashram, which is an orphanage that offers a safe loving home for up to 100 children that come from very traumatic situations. As well they have built a school that provides education for over 500 village kids and they have a clinic that provides naturapathic and western medicine for many locals in this rural environment.

I am inviting you to look at their website and consider donating to their extensive needs if it so moves you to do so.

Several projects that need money are... "We have to buy a new school bus for the school for about $30,000. Any help there is great. We are building a basketball court for the school for about $15,000. We are preparing a hockey field for about $3000. In the ashram we need a new refrigerator in the kitchen for about $300. We can use money for the girl’s or Boys education funds for college about $9,000 per year. We always need money for clothing and shoes. So you see the list goes on from very large to smaller. It really depend on what your interests are."

Folks can check out their website and donate to sriramashram.org. There is a link to the donation page. There is a place for buyer instrcutions where people can make a note that their donation came through me so that we can keep track of the contribution we make as a group if you desire.

I will likely post this request/suggestion at a later time (perhaps closer to the holidays when people are often looking for causes/places to donate.) Feel free to contact me with any questions as well. I will also be doing some volunteer work at a leprosy colony and will have more information after I visit as to how your money may be spent if you were to donate there. I trust and know the folks that administer Sri Ram Orphanage and know that every penny you donate will go directly to the chilrdren for a good cause.

Much love to you all! My next move may be up to Leh... haven't secured the plan yet. Will let you know when I do. 

Namaste,

Jen

Vegetarianism anyone?

A day in Delhi:

Signs only seen in India

Well... maybe you would see this one in the South Bronx too. But there, if they catch you parking and you don't move fast enough, they'll break your arms too!

Delhi has a new metro!!! Sooo very exciting and easy to get around! Sexist or safety? You decide... but I'll take it!

INA Market



Tobi, this may be why everyone washes their rice 3xs here!!!

When I asked if I could take pictures of the slaughter area... one guy said yes... and all of a sudden a very angry guy started yelling "No!" I got a lot of dirty looks, then the glaring yelling man gave the gentleman that provided me permission a really hard time. When I anxiously said "no problem, no problem!" and started walking away, they called me back and let me take a picture of the live chicken only... it's too bad too, because I think I really could have converted a couple of you!!!! It also explained the smell I experienced when I first entered the market.



This guy wasn't afraid!

I really feel like I am back in India now!!!! Loving every minute of it! Glares and all! Until the next time : )

"What would you do?"

Subject:  What would you do?

Well! I am really here! The airline steward coming down the aisle warning people to cover their nose while he sprayed 4 cans of bug spray at the same time sealed it for me!  I guess coming through Bahrain airport with the women in traditional hijabs and men in thobes with smoking rooms and prayer rooms stationed frequently throughout the airport was a good indicator as well that I wasn’t in Kansas anymore! Soooo very exciting!  I missed Diwali, the festival of lights, by a day… but was able to catch the aftermath of the massive fireworks set off for the day. It was explained to me that Diwali is the celebration of good over evil and the firecrackers are set off to drive away evil spirits. Locals are all coughing for days after the festivities from all the smoke! But the city was beautifully lit up from the sky when I landed in Delhi.

I was very lucky to have 2 seats to myself on the plane to London, because A) It offered me the space to stretch out and rest and B) It provided me the opportunity to meet a new friend and remember the importance of cultural sensitivity when discussing matters of significance. The steward came to me and asked if a female passenger could join me because her husband was being quite belligerent…. In a brief amount of time she began discussing very personal matters about her husband’s behavior. She was tearing up telling me how she wasn’t sure why she was emoting with me because in her culture these things really weren’t discussed and that there was shame in being this expressive. As I assured her that it can often be more comfortable to share with a stranger than someone you know, she proposed that in her spiritual belief we all have god inside us and that perhaps the god in her was meant to meet the god in me.  She also described that in her culture divorce at her age (or any age for that matter) was really deplorable and life would be very hard for her if she decided to do this. She was planning on returning to India to connect with her spiritual community and family and friends to see if they could influence her husband’s behavior. “What would you do?” she asked. As I started to think of a therapeutic approach at reframing the question so that she would be in the position to answer it for herself… I decided she was really looking for a concrete answer…  so I said, that first off, she had to realize that my opinions come from a single white woman’s  westerner’s point of view and in no way could I ever really know the multiplicity of challenges she faced in making that decision… and a rich discussion ensued after this. In parting, she exclaimed, “a beautiful soul is leaving me now. I am very privileged to know you.” It is the beauty of these pleasantries that enhances my travel experiences and I am feeling extremely blessed to be initiating this journey in such a heart filled way.

Being picked up at the airport at a god awful hour and delivered to my friend Tobi’s apt is a treat beyond words as I try to acclimate from jet lag. Another wonderful blessing! So as you can see… magic is already happening.  Thanks for being a voyeur into this journey of mine… Hang tight! It has only just begun!!!!  On that note… if anyone would like to be taken off the group email list to inform you of postings… please let me know! 

Thanks for all your continued love and support!!!

PS. Please excuse any misuse of language or spelling mistakes especially given my sleep deprived smog filled brain at this time!

Big hugs! Jen

White flag!

Ok people! I am tapping out!!!! I don't think the google group thing is doing what I want it to do either!!! Are you as sick of this as I am? Soooooooooooooooooooooo I am going to send a big ole group message letting you know when I update my blog.... so please put my gmail address in your contact list AND send me to your safe list so that my notices don't go to your trash....

For gmail users: Add me to your contacts by choosing contact tab to upper left corner under GMAIL logo and mail tab. it may take a second to load. Then press "new contact" button. fill in my name up top and email below and it will automatically save it Then the extra step for saving me to your safe list is.....

Look for the small underlined tab that says "Create a filter" next to the Search the Web button above your blue text box on your email account (top/center).
In the "From" box type jenrothjen@gmail.com and push next step
Choose "never send it to spam"
And you are done!

For Hotmail:
Add me to your contact list: From your Inbox page... scroll all the way to the bottom and look to the far left colum under Sign out of messenger. Click on contacts. Choose the "new" tab. Enter my information and push save.

Then to add to safe list: Top right corner under your name and sign out tab.... click on "options" button. Then click on "more options" Then under preventing Junk email click on safe and blocked senders. Then click on safe senders. Type my jenrothjen@gmail.com into the box and push add to my list. And you are done.

Not sure how to do it with other email servers... but you can search your site by using the help button to figure it out. I don't think just adding me to your contacts is enough though.... Hope it works for you!

Sorry folks. This may be the best I can do without having to pay for a program. Hugs!!! Jen